Choosing the Right Myler Bit for Your Horse

More than just another bit, the Myler Bit system was created by horsemen for horsemen. Brothers Ron, Dale, and Bob Myler are third generation horse trainers who have revolutionized the horse bit marketplace with their approach to tongue relief and pressure on the bars of the month.

Comprised of three levels, the Myler bitting system is a graduated system that allows you to transition bits as your horse increases their level of training and becomes more sensitive to the bit. According to the Myler bitting philosophy, when the horse responds to the bit with resistance, they need a gentler bit, not a harsher one. This is a counter approach to many equestrians’ thinking, but Myler bits (and this philosophy) have been proven time and time again.

Keep reading to learn about the various levels of Myler bits and where your horse fits into the system, or pick up a Myler brothers’ The Level Best for Your Horse book and DVD set for more extensive coverage on this compelling topic. Keep in mind that not every horse will begin their Myler bit journey with a Level One bit; it all depends on your individual horse’s demeanor and level of training.

Just Say No

Resistance is a hot topic when you talk about Myler bits. According to the Myler brothers, when your horse begins to show resistance to the bit, it is most likely time to move to the next level Myler bit, giving your horse increased tongue relief. After all, once you have put in the work and the hours in the saddle, it is time to trust your horse and your training, allowing your horse to show you how well they can perform with decreased tongue pressure.

So what does resistance look like? The fact is, resistance can manifest in a number of different ways depending on your horse and his attitude.

If your horse has an overactive mouth, this an easy way to diagnose resistive tendencies… your horse is literally begging for less tongue pressure in this situation. A busy mouth can be presented as mouth gaping, a tongue hanging out of the mouth, a horse that routinely gets his tongue over the bit, or even a horse that draws his tongue behind the bit.

Other forms of resistance include ducking behind the bit and traveling behind the vertical, rooting and learning against the bit, running through the bit, and travelling above the bit.

If your horse is showing signs of resistance, it is time to move to a softer bit.

Level One

Level One Myler bits are designed for green horses who are just beginning their training. These snaffles help your horse to learn what bit pressure is and how to interpret the rein aids coming from their rider.

The hallmark of the Level One bits is the way that they rotate on the tongue to apply ample amounts of tongue pressure. This effectively explains to your horse what you are trying to communicate. Once your horse has responded to your request, it is up to the rider to release the tension on the reins, and therefore rewarding the horse with a lack of tongue pressure.

Designed with the horse’s mouth conformation in mind, these bits protect the lips and the bars of the mouth from being pinched with a wide curved shape. Many snaffle bits collapse into a “V” shape when the reins are used, but Myler bits form a soft “U” shape that does not dig into the roof of your horse’s mouth, making the bit more comfortable for your horse.This unique curved shape also allows for more room for the tongue when the bit is in a neutral position.

Because these innovative bits were designed for especially for green horses, they have an incredible feature that helps teach your horse to turn and bend. Featuring independent side movement in the majority of the mouthpieces, your horse will learn how to respond to the aids promptly in one of these bits.

Many Level One bits are legal to use in the hunter/jumper and hunter pleasure show rings, as well as in dressage and eventing. As always, it is a great idea to consult with your association’s rule book (or the on-site steward) if you have questions about the legality of any of your equipment.

Level Two

Are you looking for the right bit to begin training your older horse for a new discipline? Perhaps your green horse is showing resistance to the Level One bit? Are you retraining a horse after a long lapse in their riding careers? The Level Two Myler Bits may be perfect for you and your horse.

In theory, Level Two bits are used a horse has been trained and educated in a Myler Level One bit. However, many green horses with stellar dispositions may be better suited to beginning their training in a Level Two Myler. Let your horse show you what bit and what Myler bitting level they are ready for.

Featuring the ergonomic curvature that equestrians and horses love, the bit allows room for the tongue while protecting the lips and the bars of the mouth from being pinch. Level Two bits have either a small port or a flexible mouthpiece that rotates to apply some tongue pressure when the rein aids are utilized.

A handful of Level Two bits are approved for dressage competition; refer to the United States Dressage Federation (USDF) or the United States Eventing Association (USEA) rulebook to learn more.

Level Two-Three

This transitional level bridges the gap between Level Two bits and Level Three bits. These ported bits are recommended for horses that have a strong foundation of training with a good disposition, or for highly trained horses that may be anxious, aggressive, or fearful in certain situations.

Level Two-Three Myler Bits utilize primarily bar, poll, and chain pressure to communicate with your horse. However, there is a slight amount of tongue pressure to reinforce the rider’s commands. Level Two-Three bits use significantly less tongue pressure than Level One or Level Two bits. The curved mouthpiece allows the bit to sit comfortably in the mouth with ample room for the tongue when the bit is in a neutral position.

If your horse begins to show resistance to the bit when ridden in a Level Two-Three bit, it may be time to transition to a Level Three bit.

Level Three

Highly trained performance horses with a solid disposition are prime candidates for Level Three Myler Bits. Experienced and trustworthy trail horses often benefit from the freedom and comfort that the Level Three bits bring to the table as well.

These curb bits are created with wider ports for maximum tongue relief, and they utilize little to no tongue pressure. Because your horse can now pick up on the most subtle cues from their rider, Level Three bits rely on the smallest amount of bar, poll, and curb pressure for communication. As always, the comfort of your horse is at the forefront of the design process with these bits, which have been manufactured with a delicate curve to allow for more room for your horse’s tongue.

Available in both English and Western options, we carry Level Three bits in a variety of cheek pieces such as Western shanks, English dees, eggbutt snaffles, and kimberwickes.

Pick Your Bit

Picking the right bit for your horse can be much like picking the perfect pair of shoes for yourself. Not only does it need to fit correctly and have the right function, but it also needs to offer proper support as well.

That is where we come in. Offering a full line of Myler Bits, our friendly sales associates at The Cheshire Horse have the tools and the knowledge to help you select the right bit for you and your horse. Together, we can help you learn what so many equestrians have already discovered… how Myler Bits can transform your riding experience and relationship with your horse.

72 thoughts on “Choosing the Right Myler Bit for Your Horse”

  1. My quarter horse is about 17 yrs old and in fantastic shape. I ride him at least twice weekly on trails and a bit in round pen which he dislikes. When I trail ride alone he throws his head a lot and tries taking off. I’m able to handle him BUT not an enjoyable situation. He’s been in a level 2 myler bit for about 7 yrs. What do you recommend. I trail ride only and walk/trot.

    Reply
    • Hi Linda, thanks for reaching out. Myler makes a number of “Level 2” bits. Which one are you currently using? They are usually an intro to leverage and mildly ported bits to begin providing slightly more tongue relief and beginning to work with indirect pressure. You may want to try going back to basics and try a single jointed snaffle, perhaps a full cheek snaffle to give you a bit more leverage. It might also be beneficial to take the time to do a lot of pressure release work, and maybe go out with a couple of buddies to help keep your horse more relaxed, and essentially just schooling out on the trail. If the head tossing behavior still continues, then you might want to try a Kimberwick with a port (this provides tongue relief), since these bits allow you to set the amount of leverage applied depending on where you connect the rein. It might take a while until you have a nice relaxing ride, but schooling hot horses on the trail consistently is often the best way to get results in showing them that they can relax while away from the barn. It may take a period of trial and error, but it can help to go back to basics for a while!

      Reply
  2. My mare is a Training Level eventer who had a year off doing only flatwork and since coming back she’s really pulling down and rooting after the jump. She’s in a hanging cheek right now and started out well with it but she has gotten increasingly resistant… Any suggestions on which Myler might be suitable?

    Thanks!

    Reply
    • Hi Charlotte, thanks for reaching out! We would be happy to help.

      This is a pretty common issue that can arise when using the hanging cheek bits for an extended period of time. Most would think that this bit would offer leverage when looking at its design, but it actually does the opposite. This bit offers no leverage at all, and over time can lead to horses leaning on the bit (which is why this style cheek piece can be ideal for events such as driving).

      What type of mouthpiece are you working with? We would suggest something that offers a little bit of leverage. Without knowing too much else about you, your horse, etc., we would suggest the Myler Eggbutt with hooks cheek piece; the hooks allow the bridle and rein to attach in designated positions which makes the bit stand up in the horse’s mouth instead of laying on it, which provides for more complete release when there is no contact on the rein, which is a good lesson for him to learn if he is laying on the bit. It also allows for both direct and indirect rein action with the independent swivel features of the bit which again helps with him getting proper release. As for a mouthpiece, the MB36 might be a good idea as it has a forward tilt, which encourages the horse to stay on the bit once he is put there, and if he moves ahead of it or leans on it he pushes into the pressure and essentially works against himself.

      An additional resource you may want to look into is the Bitting Assistant by Myler. You can complete a detailed questionnaire, which once complete gets sent to Dale Myler directly. Once he reviews it he will call you to discuss. You can access this here: https://www.toklat.com/Page/Bitting_Assistant.

      Reply
  3. Hello! I have a new dressage horse who is trained up to second level but finding she has such a hard mouth the more I get to know her. I ride her in a loose ring snaffle right now and find that no matter how strong her hind end gets… she still wants to stay above the bit and is resistant a lot of the time. I am new to Myler and will be competing on her in TL and First Level in a few weeks at our first off-property show so I am looking to try something out for the next few weeks that is Dressage legal that I could potentially use at the show and for training. What do you recommend?

    Reply
    • Hi Reba, thanks for reaching out! The trouble with loose rings can be that while they’re considered one of the most non-invasive cheek pieces, as the mouthpiece slides freely through the rings it can make it challenging for your horse to find that good contact with your hand due to the constant motion. This could be a factor as to why your mare is staying above the bit. We would recommend the Myler Dee without Hooks Comfort Snaffle Wide Barrel MB 02. The D provides a much more direct communication than the loose ring. The D also helps add just a touch more leverage, which combined with the MB02 mouthpiece can be very beneficial for a less supple mouth, as it still focuses on tongue pressure rather than pallet pressure. We would also be more than happy to offer a trial period on the Myler Bits. If it doesn’t work for you for any reason you would be more than welcome to return it (just keep in mind it will accrue a restocking fee for each day it was in use).

      Reply
  4. I have a 20 year old QH who has only just been broken in, and while green, she is a lovely girl and well behaved
    Could you please recommend the best and kindest bit for a beginner to ensure if a beginner rides her, the bit is forgiving.
    We only do trail rides and occasionally a bit of arena work.

    Thank you

    Reply
  5. My horse hates his bit. He fights getting the bridle on. When I am riding, he pretty much is constantly moving it around, biting it, or leaning on it. I have tried a couple different snaffles, some he has hated more than others. Right now I am using a 3 piece snaffle. What bit do you think I should try with him?

    Reply
    • Hi Laura, the most important thing we’d like to ask is, have you recently had his teeth looked at by your vet or equine dentist? It sounds like this could be a dental issue since he even hates taking the bit to put the bridle on. If you’d like to discuss in greater detail, we would be happy to help! We encourage you to call us at 603-358-3001 and ask for Amber. We can chat about the discipline you ride, how old the horse is, how long you have had him, what other bits you’ve tried, what specific patterns of avoidance you’ve seen, and hopefully make some additional recommendations – assuming the horse’s mouth has recently been looked at, because that should be step one of your bit journey.

      Reply
  6. Hello,
    I have a 6yr old OTTB mare I bought about a year and half ago. I have been riding her in a french link egbutt snaffle and recently tried a full cheek french link snaffle. While I have had her get somewhat softer after a while she will lean into the bit and grab it, she sometimes gets into tossing her head, and then while not having any brakes she will just go around hollow and above the bit and just continue to run through all of my aids. I am retraining her to be my event horse and I’ve wanted to start doing more jump schools, but I need to get these things together first before we move on to more challenging questions so I continue to build her confidence.

    Reply
    • Hi Livia, the behavior being described (leaning on the bit, head tossing, hollowing out) are signs of resistance to the bit. It sounds like she may benefit from moving into a bit that has less tongue pressure and allows for more comfort and movement on her tongue. Three-piece bits help in the sense that they allow the bit to shape to the horse’s mouth a little better, but they still concentrate all their pressure on the tongue. We would recommend the Myler MB04 mouthpiece. This is a good mouthpiece to try if it is the horse’s or the rider’s first experience with Myler, as it still applies a small amount of tongue pressure, but it has a small port allowing for some tongue relief, and allows for her to swallow and move her tongue which acts as a relief when she is moving forward and relaxed (think of classic licking and chewing behavior when your horse is relaxed, same idea). This also wraps around the bars of their mouth, rather than pinching like a jointed bit.

      We think staying full cheek would be a good idea for this mare. They help stabilize the bit allowing for more consistent contact between your hands and her mouth. The Myler full cheek with hooks makes for a very versatile bit. You can attach the bridle to the hook holding the bit in the “correct” position, or directly to the cheek piece allowing for more leverage. Similarly you can attach the reins to the hook creating indirect rein action, or again attach them directly to the cheek piece creating direct rein action. Basically, the hooks allow you to transition from direct to indirect action without needing to change your bit, which can come in handy as training progresses and she begins to soften up more and more.

      We don’t currently have this combo in stock, but here is a link to the Myler page: https://www.toklat.com/Products/BP/89-24045 but, we could easily order this in. We would also be more than happy to offer the Myler Trial Program, and allow for you to try out the bit and if for any reason it is still not a good fit you can bring it back and exchange it for a different one. There would be a $10 restocking fee for each day it was used. This is a handy way of trialing a few different bits and making sure you get exactly what you both need.

      Reply
  7. Hi there!

    I have a 5 year old QH who was broke to race as a 2/3yr old, then was put out to pasture and occasionally used for ranch work. I got her a few months ago and am struggling to find a bit she is happy with and won’t run through. She’s a very sweet girl and I’ve been riding her mostly in a hanging cheek with lozenge but the last few rides she’s been tossing her head and responding less and seeming a bit stressed. She had her teeth done a couple months ago. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

    Reply
  8. Hi
    I have been advised to use a myler bit as my thoroughbred fights with her bit and she stretches out her head as soon as it’s in her mouth. She tried to get it off her tongue I think.
    When riding she is ok but she is being fizzy 6 months post suspensory surgery.

    She doesn’t like the tongue pressure from what I see.

    I’m just unsure which myler to try.
    She has a snaffle with a lozenger

    Reply
    • We would recommend trying the Low Port Comfort Snaffle MB04. The MB 04 provides an excellent transition for experienced horses entering the Myler System, horses that have been ridden exclusively in a single-jointed mouthpiece, or horses that have not been ridden for a while needing re-schooling. This bit will rotate on the tongue and apply tongue pressure, however, it has a small (¼”) port that introduces some tongue relief to the horse. The port allows the horse to swallow and move his tongue when he is moving forward and relaxed, which acts as a release or reward. The mouthpiece is curved, and it wraps around the bars and lips instead of pinching.

      We do have two of the 5″ available: https://www.cheshirehorse.com/myler-eggbutt-snaffle-bit-mb-04-mouth.

      Reply
  9. HI
    I have a young 17.5 hd Shire/Friesian cross who was started with my trainer out west with a short shank twisted snaffle with a curb chain. He is forward – but responsive and has a very soft mouth. It is my understanding that you ideally don’t want to keep a young horse in a twisted bit for an extended time.
    I ride English and have always liked the Myler bits (Usually the D ring comfort snaffles).
    I would like to shift him to a Myler now that his basic training is complete and I have him here with me. I am not sure however which Myler to transition him to.

    I was looking at the 5 HBT Shank Twisted Snaffle, as the most similar to what he knows, but was not sure if I need to stay with should stay with the short shank or if I can now shift over to the D ring (or other type) – advantages/disadvantages of short shank vs D ring?

    Also If I need to stay with a Twisted bit or can/should I now shift to regular snaffle. (he is 8 months under saddle now)

    Finally, with the shift to a Myler is the curb chain something to continue with ?

    I assume I should stay with Level one – or should I advance to level 2. Are you able to customize my order if I need to modify the combination?
    Would greatly appreciate guidance – recommendations.

    Reply
    • Hi Kim, great questions! We would recommend trying the Low Port Comfort Snaffle MB04. The MB 04 provides an excellent transition for experienced horses entering the Myler System, horses that have been ridden exclusively in a single-jointed mouthpiece, or horses that have not been ridden for a while needing re-schooling. This bit will rotate on the tongue and apply tongue pressure, however, it has a small (¼”) port that introduces some tongue relief to the horse. The port allows the horse to swallow and move his tongue when he is moving forward and relaxed, which acts as a release or reward. The mouthpiece is curved, and it wraps around the bars and lips instead of pinching.

      We do currently have two of the 5″ available: https://www.cheshirehorse.com/myler-eggbutt-snaffle-bit-mb-04-mouth.

      This bit does not require a curb chain, and once he has been in this bit for a while, seems to be going well in it, and begins to show signs of wanting less tongue pressure, move up into something with D ring and allows for direct as well as indirect rein communication. Maybe something like the Myler Dee with Hooks Low Port Comfort Snaffle MB 04. The hooks make this bit very versatile and can be used with a curb strap.

      Reply
  10. Hi! I have a 7yr old paint that seems to dislike all bits (we’ve tried snaffles, French links, Waterford, and happy mouths thinking maybe it was the metal he doesn’t like). When being bridled he gapes his mouth (as if he were stretching it) over and over again, as if the bit is uncomfortable in his mouth. He will sometimes do this while riding as well, but not to the same extreme. His teeth were checked several times, with no issues. His mouth shape is “normal.”

    He is still a bit green, learning to balance and bend, but he is mellow and generally very stable and pokey personality (very much a kick ride). When riding, he gets hard in the mouth, like he is resisting any pressure, despite riding with a light contact. At times, he’s been more responsive (and seems happier) in a rope halter with rope reins than he has been while bridled.

    He is not very forward but at the same time he will also frequently bear down against the bit and not halt/stand (he doesn’t take off, he just continues walking and pressing against the bit/not standing). He’s in a Waterford Pelham right now and does stop with more poll / less bit pressure. I’m starting to think these things may be related to his bit as well.

    I wonder if he needs tongue relief and I’m not sure where to start with the myler system.

    Reply
    • Hi Danielle, it sounds like you are on the right track by interpreting these signs as resistance to tongue pressure. With that in mind, even though he is still green we would suggest a level 2 mouthpiece which begins to offer some tongue relief and mostly focuses the pressure on the horse’s bars and lips. The MB06 mouthpiece could be a great introduction for him, and would make for a more simple transition into a level 2-3 mouthpiece like the MB36. We would suggest pairing this with either your D or Eggbutt cheek pieces, both will prevent the mouthpiece from draping on the tongue and will provide direct communication to the mouth. It is very possible once he gets used to a bit that focuses less on tongue pressure, that he will shortly after show signs of resistance again. This is when we would suggest making the transition to something with more tongue relief like the MB36, with the cheek pieces of your preference. But it is important to take the transition step-by-step and not jump into something with the least amount of tongue pressure. It’s important to learn how to interpret the new type of pressure, kind of like learning a new language.

      Reply
  11. Hello! I have an 8 year old who goes well in the Myler triple barrel mouthpiece d-ring with hooks/curb chain. Unfortunately, it is not a legal bit for hunter jumpers. What would you recommend that might give me a similar feel? My first thought was a triple barrel in a pelham as pelhams are hunter jumper legal, but Myler doesn’t appear to make one. The horse tries to travel above the bit and hollow in most other bits I’ve tried. Teeth have been floated and horse has been vet checked.

    I’d appreciate any advice you might be able to offer. Thanks!

    Reply
    • Hi Kelly, we would suggest you look to get the same mouthpiece and try the D without hooks. Most of these are USEF legal (depending on the mouthpiece), and would feel similar to both horse and rider, especially if the horse stays in the same mouthpiece. The only difference is you would be unable to use a curb, and the bit is less versatile without the hooks. Let us know if you have any additional questions, and have a great day!

      Reply
  12. Hi Im hailey I just recently got a 9 year old ottb mare who is so willing and calm but comes with anxiety I’ve been working hard with her and taking it slow I have a Pelham bit currently for my other horse and need advice on a good bit for my mare she listens to the Pelham but doesn’t quit stop when asked she tosses head frequently but knows not to but just really need advice on a good bit for a strong horse

    Reply
    • Hi Hailey, this kind of thing can definitely be tricky. Many thoroughbreds don’t respond well to too much mouth pressure. The harder you pull on their mouth, the faster they go. They really are the types of horses that require a lot of give and take and very steady hands. The more you brace, the more they will brace back. We would recommend going to something super basic (such as a French link) and building up if you need to once you build a connection/foundation with this horse. Something as soft as a French link bit can make a world of difference. You can also give us a call and we’d be happy to discuss options with you, 877-358-3001.

      Reply
  13. Hi!
    I’m looking into putting my horse in a myler bit but not sure where to start. I’ve been having a hard time finding a bit that he both listens to and is comfortable in. He is very strong and runs through plain snaffles and even waterfords but was very behind the bit when I tried a 3 ring elevator. He’ll also turn his head sideways to avoid pressure and will flick his head down as if trying to move the bit while going on a loose rein occasionally so I think the bit is uncomfortable in his mouth. I think he might like the myler mouthpieces but not sure if he’d respect it or just run through it? I’d love some advice! Thanks!

    Reply
    • Hi Sydney, we would strongly recommend a Myler correctional ported barrel bit. The 33 42 combination version is an excellent solution for strong horses that try to run through the connection. Pelhams, Kimberwicks, and other standard curbed bits should be avoided since they all encourage the horse to tuck under in avoidance of the action of the curb.

      Reply
  14. I have a bit-fit question.

    I just switched my green warm blood from a French link to the Myler d-ring level 1 with the hope that it would eliminate some low-key resistance I was encountering when it came to things like pivoting/backing/sidepassing. He seems to concentrate better with the new bit.

    My problem is the way the Mylar bit fits. My 5.5″ French link fit him well but with the same size Mylar, there is more space between the mouth and rings. There isn’t a lot of mouthpiece showing, but just enough to make me wonder if I should have gotten a 5.25″ bit. Does the shape of the Mylar bits really alter the size bit a horse needs?

    Reply
    • Hi Jess, thanks for reaching out! Myler bits can appear slightly generous in width compared to other bits because they are very forward-curved for the benefit of the horse’s tongue. Typically you want a pinky’s width on either side of the bit when it’s in the horse’s mouth. I don’t believe Myler bits come in sizes such as 5.25 or 5.75. I believe it is only every 1/2″. If you could give us the model number of the bit you currently have, I would be happy to double check on that for you!

      Reply
  15. Hi, I have an Arab who is still a bit green. He is buddy sour, and he is barn sour. He is ok with buddies out in the field, but these last few times, he is bolting, and racing back to the barn and other horses. When he is alone out on the trail ride, he starts bucking, and then gallops back to the barn! I try to one-rein, and pull back on both reins while using seat. He will not listen at all. I am using a Myler bit right now, but I’m wondering if he needs a bit with nose pressure. Like the Myler Combination Bit. The bit that I’m using is: MYLER HBT SHANK SWEET IRON LOW PORTED BARREL NARROW BIT MB 43LP 89-20435. I was wondering what everyone else’s opinion was. Thank you very much!

    Reply
    • Hi Sarah, great question! As silly as it sounds, we would recommend going to something a little bit softer. You want to be careful with going with anything stronger than what you are currently using because, if used improperly, it can eventually make the horse hard in the mouth. Part of the reason your horse is bearing against your contact could be because the bit is too much for him, but the majority of the issue may be confidence based. Before reassessing the bit, we recommend seeking out help from a trainer.

      You are more than welcome to email [email protected] or call the store with any further questions, 603-358-3001.

      Reply
  16. Thank you very much. I am already working with a trainer and have been researching more. I may I need to try something softer. I appreciate your time!

    Reply
  17. hi there! i am trying to decide which bit to get for my new boy and am so lost in it all lol! i recently got a 9 yo thoroughbred who is a (now retired) carriage horse from an amusement park. while he is broke to ride, he is still very green and unsure of whether he’s been taught english/western, so he’s being trained western from now on. he has an extremely pushy yet lazy attitude, he does not do anything he doesn’t want to do and will buck when going from a walk to trot (and lord knows what from trot to canter 🤦🏼‍♀️). he also at times resists me turning him, no matter how hard i pull. vet has ruled out any pain, simply attitude based. please let me know what you recommend 🙂

    also these behaviors have been occurring in a d ring snaffle with copper rollers.

    Reply
    • Hi Alexa, thanks for your question. We would really recommend getting a second vet’s opinion. It is very possible that he could have been in an accident being a carriage horse (e.g. flipped over). He could potentially be in pain, which could be why he is not wanting to move forward, bend/turn, and is bucking at any speed faster than the walk. It might be a good idea to get some flexions done on him along with an x-ray of his back and neck. There could be some discomfort that is causing this behavior. Also, one other thing to check for would be Lyme. Lyme can cause a lot of pain and discomfort all over the body. Especially if it is chronic.

      We would also recommend getting a chiropractic adjustment and/or massage done on him. Also, doing lots of “carrot” stretches left to right will help loosen up his neck if he is tight there. How he reacts to doing that might also give you some indication as to if there is something physical going on. Even if it is neck related (stiffness) and not an old injury, it can cause back pain. Just like us when we have neck pain, our back typically hurts because we are compensating for the pain. We would also suggest ruling out any saddle fitting issues that might be causing pain.

      When it comes to a bit, we would recommend trying a full cheek. The full cheek bit will help to teach him how to steer by placing pressure on the outside of the horse’s face. With carriage horses (same goes for race horses) they are taught to go no way else but straight. With that being said, they can be stiffer in the neck. This is where the “carrot” stretches can be extremely helpful!

      One last thing that we would suggest would be to try to take all weight off his back by free lunging, lunging on a lunge line, or long lining. If he is having trouble steering due to greeness and not pain, the long lining can really help with that. That is how a lot of green unbroke babies are usually trained before being ridden.

      Hopefully that helps!

      Reply
  18. HI, I am using a. off-brand bit and unsure of what it is. I think I want to switch to a Myler, but I still don’t quite know which one to use. I have a beginner horse who is very green. Opinion?

    Reply
    • A level 2 Myler bit may be the way to go for both rider and horse. In theory, the level 2 Myler bits are usually used for well trained and educated horses, however many green horses with an excellent disposition may be better suited for beginning their training in a level 2 Myler bit.

      Reply
  19. Hey there,

    I am looking to try Myler with my 15yr saddlebred gelding that I mostly trail ride (do a little arena work and have the hopes to compete in 25-50mile endurance rides). Although at one time a competing saddleseat horse he has issues. He has been subject to pain prior to coming into my life due to a flip over accident and I’ll fitting saddles. I have worked through a good bit of his issues, however there are things I continue to see. He tends to blow through aids and gets behind the bit. I’m looking for something to encourage him to accept the bit and relax but also a bit that will give me control if we encounter hard situations on the trail.

    He has been going decent in dog bone Eeinsman Circle R Performance (will get behind it), blows through a 3 piece loose ring and hated Mylers Western Comfort Snaffle Bit (rearing). I like the idea of trying a Mylar kimberwick but am open to other recommendations.

    Reply
    • Hi Elizabeth, first we would recommend getting a chiropractor or vet out to see your horse to rule out any pain-related issues due to his past. Choosing a Myler Bit can depend on the horses disposition/training level as well as the rider’s experience and hand. With this horse’s past in mind, you will want him to be able to start to relax and give over his back. This will then allow him to loosen up through is neck and back. You could try a level 2 Myler bit. Maybe something with a shorter shank or even no shank at all. Sometimes that extra leverage can be to much for some horses.

      Myler Bits offer more pallet pressure than other bits, so when the horse gives to your hand, you need to be extra diligent about rewarding him by giving back with your hands. If your hands become at all rough and there is no reward (give in the hands), then this can cause the horse to feel stuck and even potentially rear.

      Let us know if you have any more questions, and we would be happy to help, or even put you in touch with Myler directly.

      Reply
  20. Hi, I have a six year old mare with minimal training. She currently rides in a loose ring French link with a copper lozenge. She often ducks above or behind the vertical when riding and will lean on my hands. She does a lot of head shaking, broncing, has bolted once which is VERY out of character for her. She was perfectly fine in her Mullen mouth full cheek snaffle but I transitioned because she wasn’t softening with it and would try to get her toungue over the bit. What Myler would you reccomend? I was thinking of getting a cherry roller bit because it would encourage her to play with the bit and maybe not put her toungue over it but I don’t have any experience with it and I don’t want to use something really harsh.

    Reply
    • Hi Anya, typically when a horse is ducking behind the vertical, that means there isn’t enough leg/forward momentum. A French link is one of the softest bits out there, so that likely isn’t the issue. Sometimes it can be scary to have them go more forward and off your leg. As a normal human instinct, you instantly want to slow them up. Unfortunately, that can then cause them to feel stuck. Cherry roller bits can actually be on the harsher side of things. With that bit being a single joint it has almost a “stabbing” effect when activated and can even pinch a little with the rollers. With how opinionated/sensitive this mare sounds, we suggest avoiding the cherry roller. Before changing the bit, try to encourage the mare to stretch down and reach for the contact. Keep your contact light but steady, and push her off your leg. Once she learns to relax and accept the contact, she will eventually come up more within your hands. Transitions are also a great tool to get a horse to sit on their hind end. By doing that, she will become lighter in the front end. We also suggest checking the fit of your saddle to be sure it’s not pinching anywhere. If you’re really interested in trying a Myler, we would recommend trying a level one bit.

      Reply
  21. Hi There
    I have a 9 year old QH who is currently in a loose ring double jointed bit w/peanut. I would like to move her into a Myler. I am noticing that she is resisting lateral flexion and sometimes rooting at the lope. She is very healthy, sees the Chiro regularly and just had her teeth done. I feel like there is some resistance. Can you suggest a Myler bit for her? Thanks!

    Reply
    • Hi Sarah, you will likely have the best luck with a level one bit. Although we are limited in our recommendation since the information we have on the horse’s overall disposition is limited. You could also try a fixed ring bit with the same mouthpiece. That will give more pressure on either side of his face, encouraging him to turn. Something like a D-ring or full cheek could work for this. Adding more opposite leg pressure for the direction you are looking to turn to will help as well. Lots of serpentines and small circles will encourage him to loosen up in his neck muscles.

      Reply
  22. Hi I have a 7year old Appaloosa x thoroughbred that is really fussy in his mouth .. chopping leaning general resistance..
    he had a stifle operation May 21 ( fully rehabbed) and has been given the all clear from vets to carry on his schooling as normal
    He hacks trail rides polework and schooling . But he just seems “not right” in his mouth…
    He regularly sees physio had teeth done in June, feet regular trims
    Myself and instructor feels it’s attitude or
    Self guarding from the trauma of his accident..
    he’s currently in a NS loose ring French link lozenge before accident he was in the NS hanging cheek French link lozenge bit but evaded this when he came back into work ….I just feel he needs to except the contact more and become more stable in his mouth
    I am thinking of trying the myler French link hanging cheek would you recommend this bit
    Thank you

    Reply
    • Hi Jane, he could absolutely be self guarding! A French link bit is one of the softest bits out there—especially a loose ring—so that likely wouldn’t be the primary cause. He could be anticipating/self guarding. We would suggest trying to long-line to get him to stretch, give over his topline, and push from behind without the interference of a rider. See if that helps! If not, a Myler Bit that would be comparable to what is currently being used would be a MB02 either a loose ring or a Baucher.

      Reply
  23. Hullo, I’ve got a kind genuine gypsy cob that I’ve been riding on the first ring of a Dutch gag..mostly hacking and trail riding. She pulls like a train in trot and especially in canter…not bolting but more ‘let’s get on with this! Out of my way, peasants!’
    I’m reluctant to drop to the bottom ring, and a friend has suggested a combination Myler. Could you advise me which version to get to start off with? Thanks Christina

    Reply
    • Hi Christina, we would agree with your friend’s suggestion to try the Myler Combination bit. As intense as the bit might look, it actually has the mildest Myler mouthpiece out there in terms of pressure. This bit is the ideal bit for strong horses that try to run away with you with their head tucked down/out/in. The generous wide port allows room for the tongue to pass almost completely under the bit. This bit applies little to no tongue pressure, working primarily off the lips and bars. We recommend the Myler 3-ring Combination Med/Wide Ported Barrel MB 33.

      Reply
  24. I thought that I knew what I wanted in a bit, but now I’m confused by the many Myler options. I am currently in a French link snaffle with loose ring, given to me 20 years ago and now it is pretty worn out. I trail ride and do dressage work. My mare is 25 years old, I have soft hands, we are both going well. I would appreciate a bit that would ensure a perfect piaffe.. haha… We are not that advanced, but I have no bitting problems, just need a new one and need help choosing. I do not compete. thanks

    Reply
    • Hi Deborah, we would suggest a level 3 English Myler bit. The 3rd level Myler bits are suitable for horses with advanced training and a solid disposition. They have little to no tongue pressure and allow for maximum tongue relief. You could try the Myler Medium Baucher with Low Medium Wide Ported Barrel (MB33). This bit will give a little more leverage if you want it. If you want to stick with something more traditional without the added leverage, then you could try the Myler Eggbutt without Hooks Medium Wide Ported Barrel (MB33).

      Reply
  25. Hi, we have used a Myler long shank with great success on our endurance horses. Unfortunately the FEI have made it a rule for no long shanks to be used. They allowed my daughter when competing to clip the reins onto the main snaffle ring but she had to tape up the shank so it couldn’t be used. She had an awful time with the horse pulling her arms out and going too fast on the first part of the route. She never experienced this with the long shank. Her contact was always minimal and soft and she dictated the pace not the horse. What other Myler do you recommend to do the same job but be FEI compliant?

    Reply
    • Hi Jackie, thanks for your question. We would be happy to help with this, but we’re going to need a little more information from you in order to recommend something comparable. Please reach out to Kate at [email protected] or give her a call at the store at 877-358-3001, and she can help you out!

      Reply
  26. Good morning,
    I have a 16yr old Arabian mare that I want to try with a Myler bit. She is very well trained in her double jointed snaffle, but frequently chews on the bit while working and does not stay on the bit consistently. We are starting to do Dressage, after focusing on jumping. trails, etc earlier in her life. I am wondering if she does not like the tongue pressure and would go well in the 33 or 36 mouthpiece. Which would you recommend? Also, is there a certain cheekpiece you’d recommend?
    Thank you!

    Reply
    • The 33 and the 36 are both great options. The 33 does have a leverage bit, which might help with the collection issue that you’re experiencing. You’ll also want to be sure that you are pushing your horse far enough in front of the leg aid (more forward) if they are slightly sucked back or not pushing through enough. This will help lighten the front end encourage them to reach for the connection and then allow the ability to collect them up into your hands.

      The 36 unfortunately does not have a leverage bit, but the mouth piece might be best since you state that the tongue pressure might be a lot for the horse to handle. The 33 gives lots of tongue pressure when engaged. The 36 does not, but there is a slight forward tilt in the mouth piece, so there is some pressure.

      With that being said, if you decide to move forward with the 33 we would suggest the Myler Eggbutt without Hooks and Forward Tilt Ported Barrel MB 36, or if you decide you want the leverage, we would suggest the Myler Medium Baucher with Low Medium Wide Ported Barrel MB 33.

      Feel free to give us a call with any more questions or to place an order! 877-358-3001

      Reply
  27. I have a seven year old quarter horse mare, who is definitely more woah than go. I have done a ton of trail riding on her and she’s been exposed to everything you can think of and handled it well. I ride her in the mildest Snafflebit I could find, but would like to transition to a curb or grazing bit. She’s always disliked the snaffle, and is somewhat resistant to it. She dislikes, arena work and gets frustrated with me. I’ve also ridden her in a Hackamore, and feel I could safely ride her with just a halter. Although a little more control would be prudent. She doesn’t toss her head or mouth the bit but her initial reaction is to push against me rather than give. I’m in the process of teaching her to neck rein. I would like to try a myler bit but there’s so many options I don’t know which to choose. What do you recommend?

    Reply
    • Hi Jason, thanks for your question. We would recommend that you try the Myler B2 Shank with Narrow Low Ported Barrel MB 43LP. This bit does not rotate on the tongue, but offers solid pressure. The port is narrow enough, which allows the tongue to pass freely underneath the bit. When the reins are engaged, the horse will only feel slight pressure on the sides of the mouth, as apposed to intense pressure. We think that with how you described your horse, this bit would be great for her disposition.

      Reply
  28. Hi Cheshire I have a 5year old race horse I am training in a baucher french link has been going ok in it, but last six months he has started over bending pulling very hard in it.
    Have tried Norton &Kineton bits with little success.
    I have thought about Myler or Winderen bits because of there port he seems to be retracting his tongue back and forth.
    I am racing him Friday with a tongue tie on.
    Winderen have a gel bit ported mullen with guards in loose ring and all the other cheek piece types.
    Eg Dee Ring, Egg butt, Baucher etc.
    Don’t think Full Cheek is allowed in racing.
    Could you please let me know what you think, perhaps I could get a bit of you.
    I am in New Zealand.

    Reply
    • Being based in the US, we are unfamiliar with NZ racing rules. We recommend referring to the rulebook in regards to bit legality.

      If your horse has difficulty with tongue pressure, a Myler bit could be a great option. Please let us know if you could like assistance selecting a bit for training purposes.

      Reply
  29. Hello Cheshire horse,

    I have a fully trained paint mare I just bought. She’s been sitting a few years in pasture and needs a brief tune up but clearly knows her aids. I’m just planning to ride on trail and light arena work, and put some beginners on her. I have ridden her so far in my green horse’s mylar level one snaffle and she roots against it pretty hard, I know her previous owner rode her in a Tom Thumb. Not sure how much she liked that but I am uncomfortable using one of those. Any recommendations for a good mylar for her? I am thinking of a level two with a short shank given her level of education but would appreciate your suggestions. Thank you!

    Reply
    • Considering your mare’s background and your riding preferences, a Myler Level 2 with a short shank could be a suitable choice. The short shank provides mild leverage, suitable for light arena work and trail riding. Since she has been responsive to a Myler bit, this level offers increased control without being overly severe. However, it’s crucial to assess her response and comfort, making adjustments as needed. Always introduce any new bit gradually to ensure a smooth transition. Consulting with a knowledgeable horse trainer or equine professional can provide valuable insights tailored to your mare’s specific needs.

      Reply
  30. Hi there,

    I have a 7 year old Thoroughbred who is a bit green, but has an excellent personality, and is super willing to work and learn new things. Sometimes he can be nervous/hot but nothing out of control. Spooks hardly ever. I’m wanting to switch him over to a Myler bit, but I’m just not sure which one I should try. We do Dressage, so we also need something USEF legal. We’ve been riding in a single jointed eggbutt snaffle, with tendency to be above the bit and hollow or ducking behind the bit, sometimes leaning or yanking or being fussy in the mouth. So I switched to a double jointed loose ring, but am still finding a tendency to be inconsistent in the contact either going above or behind the bit, and sometimes opening the mouth, or being fussy with the head, though it is a lot better than when I had him in the single joined snaffle. I’m thinking he really just doesn’t enjoy the tongue pressure. What would be your recommendations on a bit to try for him? I’m debating whether I should try a level 2 MB 04 or a Level 2-3 MB 06….I’m open to any recommendations! Thanks!

    Reply
    • Hi Olivia,
      Choosing the right bit for your horse can be a challenge, but it sounds like you’ve done a good job of narrowing down your options based on your horse’s age, personality, and riding discipline.
      You might want to try the Myler MB 04 Low Port Comfort Snaffle Bit. It is a level 2 bit that is USEF legal and is designed for horses that are sensitive to tongue pressure. The low port mouthpiece will relieve pressure on the tongue, and the comfort snaffle design will help to keep the bit stable in the horse’s mouth
      It is a level 2 bit, which means that it is appropriate for horses that are at the beginning of their training or that have a challenging disposition. It is USEF legal, so you can use it in competition. It has a low port mouthpiece, which will relieve pressure on the tongue. It is a comfort snaffle design, which will help to keep the bit stable in the horse’s mouth.
      Of course, the best way to find out if this bit is right for your horse is to try it out. However, we think it is a good option to consider based on your horse’s needs and your riding goals.

      Reply
      • What would be your recommendation if still showed resistance in the MB 04? Would the next step up be the MB 06 or MB 36? What is the difference between the two? Thanks!

        Reply
        • Hi Olivia,
          Choosing the right bit for your horse can be tricky, especially if they’re showing resistance to the current one. Both the MB 06 and MB 36 could be potential options, but it depends on what’s causing the resistance in the MB 04 and what specific qualities you’re looking for in the next bit.
          Here’s a breakdown of the differences:
          The MB 06 Mouthpiece is similar to MB 04, featuring a low port and three-piece design for tongue relief and pressure distribution. It offers slightly more tongue pressure than MB 04 due to the slightly narrower port. It is suitable for horses needing more clarity of aids from the rider, potentially those lacking responsiveness to the MB 04.
          Meanwhile, the MB 36 Mouthpiece has a tilted port design (45° angle) compared to the flat port of MB 04 and MB 06. This offers wider tongue relief but also applies more tongue pressure when engaged. It encourages lower head carriage and collection due to the tilted port and tongue pressure. Can be helpful for horses leaning or poking their faces out. This makes it suitable for horses needing head lowering and improved responsiveness, but with good tongue sensitivity requiring balanced rider aids.

          Here’s how to consider which option might be better for your situation: If your horse simply isn’t responsive enough to the MB 04, the MB 06, with its slightly increased tongue pressure, could be an option. However, if they’re sensitive to tongue pressure or tend to poke their faces out, it might not be ideal. If you primarily want to encourage lower head carriage and collection, the MB 36 could be a good choice. However, it requires balanced rider aids due to the increased tongue pressure and might not be suitable for horses overly sensitive to tongue contact.

          Ultimately, the best way to choose the right bit is to consult with a qualified equine professional, such as a trainer or bit fitter. They can assess your horse’s individual needs and riding style to make a personalized recommendation. Remember, choosing the right bit is a process, and it might take some trial and error to find the perfect fit for your horse and your partnership.

          Reply
  31. Hi, I have a 12 year old Welsh Pony that is currently in a jointed, slotted Kimberwick bit with curb chain. He puts his head down excessively during walk and trot, but gets super excited when doing trot poles and jumps and often rushes through canter courses and it is difficult to get him to slow down. Lately he has tried several times to bolt and did successfully run away with his rider who had great difficulty getting him to stop. If you can suggest one of your bits to help with these issues, I would greatly appreciate it.

    Reply
    • Hi Lynn,

      Considering your Welsh Pony’s behavior, you might want to explore Mylar bits for better communication and control. The Mylar Comfort Snaffle or Mylar Combination Bit could be suitable options. The Comfort Snaffle encourages relaxation and breaks to a stop, which might help manage his excitement. The Combination Bit combines a snaffle and a curb, providing additional stopping power without sacrificing sensitivity. However, it’s essential to consult with a knowledgeable equestrian professional or a veterinarian to ensure the bit suits your pony’s specific needs and your riding style. Additionally, addressing any underlying training issues is crucial for long-term success.

      Reply
  32. Hi, I have a 2 yr old QH filly that was just started with a trainer for 4 months under saddle. I have loved my 15 yr old paint gelding in his myler so I would like to put my 2 yr old into an introductory myler. we will be riding strictly ranch horse in the show ring as well as trail riding and continued training. Your advice is appreciated.

    Reply
    • Hi April,

      Myler bits are a great choice for many horses, but it’s important to ensure a good fit and suitability for a young horse still in training. Given the information provided, here are two possible Myler bits that could be good introductory options for your 2-year-old Quarter Horse filly, keeping in mind that a professional bit fitting is always recommended:

        Myler MB 01 Loose Ring Comfort Snaffle Wide: This Level 1 bit is designed for young horses just beginning training. It has a curved mouthpiece that relieves pressure on the tongue and a loose ring cheek piece that encourages acceptance. Users particularly like its wide mouthpiece which some horses find more comfortable.
        Myler MB 04 Low Port Comfort Snaffle: This Level 2 bit is another good option for young horses in early training. It has a low port mouthpiece that provides some tongue relief and the comfort snaffle mouthpiece encourages a soft mouth. This bit is also popular with riders due to its positive reviews for transitioning horses into the Myler system .

      Remember, these are just recommendations, and it’s important to consider your filly’s individual needs and temperament when making a final decision. Consulting with your trainer and a professional bit fitter is the best course of action to ensure the perfect fit and choice for your horse.

      Reply
    • Hi Sandy,
      The key difference between a Myler MB36 and MB33 bit lies in their mouthpieces:

      MB36: This mouthpiece has a forward-tilted port, angled at 45 degrees. This design offers more tongue relief when the horse is off contact or on a very light contact with the rider’s hands. However, with a stronger rein application, the mouthpiece will act on the tongue for increased control.

      MB33: This mouthpiece has a straight, low port that provides maximum tongue relief. It’s generally considered a milder bit suited for finished horses that don’t respond well to pressure on the tongue.

      Reply

Leave a Comment